Young at Heart

I never met a girl who made me feel like you do... the apt lyrics which boom from the system as Felder and Felder's models swagger in strong strides down the runway. The collection is ocean colour scene meets grunge glamour with a denim blue ocean palette meeting black silohettes of  studs, embellishment and the all important leather. This collection certainly lives up to it's label of  " modern, sexy and cool" and the finishing touches of feather collars and flecks of metallics allow this collection to be worn at all tomorrow's parties. Ava Adore! 

Felder and Felder  

Boogie and the History Maker

Australian designers Sass and Bide describe their latest AW11 collection as " A clash of bold, strong and the obscure", a somewhat defining statement. The collection is self -titled " Boogie and the History Maker" and is seen as a reflection of the past 12 years of the designer's friendship and fashion fraternity. Beaming in bold prints and stunning suntans at the collections finale,  you can't help but have a sunny disposition. This collection certainly has a summer stamp  and has dared to bare in a union where tangerine meets tribal prints.

Sass and Bide  

Blinded by Science

 Jean-Pierre Braganza was a breath of cold air in his science inspired collection. Heavy industrial beats cushioned the collection which revealed sculptured silhouettes and sharp suits. Braganza who trained at Victoria Beckham's favourite Roland Mouret before setting up his own independent label, describes the Braganza muse as " strong and confident with good taste. She's not afraid to embrace the dark side of life." . Not convinced? Braganza leads you into temptation with sheer paneling, constricted tailoring and a love of leather. You don't always have to look on the bright side of life and many may  be left with red blushes matching the models. 

Jean Pierre Braganza

Princess Charles

Caroline Charles is a true veteran of  design. Having worked in fashion for  47 years, Charles has worked with Mary Quant in the swinging 60s on the mod movement and miniskirts. Now noting her music tastes to be Arcade Fire and Mozart, it seems that Charles is trying to weave together two generations. Influences of seventies folk are reflected yet this collection is very much high end, high society and high glamour. The showcase had all the airs and graces, yet it was the bejeweled gown as the finale piece which showed the naughty novelty and experimentation of old.

Caroline Charles

Fantasia

Having won the Fashion Fringe Award in 2009, designer duo Jena.Theo describe the JT female as  "confident and daring". Influences for the AW11 collection came from Art Deco and Norse Mythology to 1980s fantasy films and freezing cold weather. Whilst warming their cockles in the design process, Jena. Theo presented a bare faced front with a selection of sheer pieces .With models wearing Michael Stipe-esque war paint, the show started with sirens. Fantasia and Labyrinth references ensued with a neutral palette of charcoal, grey and black. TOPSHOP Unique may have made spring steps with their SS11 reference to mythology, yet it is Jena.Theo which seals the metamorphose into the winter months.

Jena.Theo

Grimm Glamour

 Maria Grachvogel is Haute-fly's newest favourite designer. Renowned  for pushing the fashion envelope and being 'an architect of the female form', Grachvogel's clients love her signature catsuits and 'magic pants'    (which are said to lengthen the legs and narrow the hips  - we can almost hear Gok's gasp!). Talking on her feline signature piece, " I have had at  least one catsuit in every collection. They embody the kind of versatility and modern glamour I love."  AW11 for Grachvogel's label is inspired by Brothers Grimm, which gives the collection a subtle sinister edge.  Set in Savoy's Lancaster ballroom, signature draping was set against a soft colour palette. Ebonies, buttermilk, crisp whites and methamorphic prints were seen on slick silhouettes of silk and lace. Such a magical mix which cements this collection as a true fashion delicacy. 

 Maria Grachvogel

Maroon 5

Dublin designer Paul Costelloe started the showcase with his 24 year old daughter Jessica. Wrapped up in tweed sourced from Tipperary, the collection revealed a palette of emerald, mustard and mocha heels. From sharp tailored skirts, block colours, hand warmers and velvet blazers, Costello's inspirations of  "colour, Irish tweed and  Boulevard Saint-Honoré in the late sixties” were clearly woven into each piece. Haute-fly loves the Mulberry inspired hair pieces, which  give a conservative nod to celebrities such as Cheryl, Rihanna and Gaga. 

Paul Costelloe