Urban Cool

Aminaka Wilmont served up a sensual selection of silhouettes in subtle prints, mocha palette and licks of leather. The organic style hair braids and minimalist make up created an urban cool aesthetic. Key AW10 trends of knee high socks, shearling and leather shorts resonated from the catwalk. Yet it was the yellow contact lenses which gave the audience an eyeful of the designer duo's  Icelandic influences and created the real eruption. 

Aminaka Wilmont  

Blinded by Science

 Jean-Pierre Braganza was a breath of cold air in his science inspired collection. Heavy industrial beats cushioned the collection which revealed sculptured silhouettes and sharp suits. Braganza who trained at Victoria Beckham's favourite Roland Mouret before setting up his own independent label, describes the Braganza muse as " strong and confident with good taste. She's not afraid to embrace the dark side of life." . Not convinced? Braganza leads you into temptation with sheer paneling, constricted tailoring and a love of leather. You don't always have to look on the bright side of life and many may  be left with red blushes matching the models. 

Jean Pierre Braganza

French Fancies

American designer Corrie Nielson studied at Central St. Martins and learnt her trade working with the great Dame Vivienne Westwood until 2006. In 2010 Nielson won the prestigious Fashion Fringe Award and Westwood's influential theatrics and drama can be felt in the upcoming AW11 collection. From structured bodices to Poirot- esque Elizabethan collars, nipped waists and knot fastenings in rich terracotta and aubergine, noted influences include the Elizabethan period and French haute couture. With the upcoming nuptials of  Windsor and Middleton, celebrations and monarchy seem to be the words of everybody's lips and Corrie's collection is a respectable  royal affair.

Princess Charles

Caroline Charles is a true veteran of  design. Having worked in fashion for  47 years, Charles has worked with Mary Quant in the swinging 60s on the mod movement and miniskirts. Now noting her music tastes to be Arcade Fire and Mozart, it seems that Charles is trying to weave together two generations. Influences of seventies folk are reflected yet this collection is very much high end, high society and high glamour. The showcase had all the airs and graces, yet it was the bejeweled gown as the finale piece which showed the naughty novelty and experimentation of old.

Caroline Charles

Fantasia

Having won the Fashion Fringe Award in 2009, designer duo Jena.Theo describe the JT female as  "confident and daring". Influences for the AW11 collection came from Art Deco and Norse Mythology to 1980s fantasy films and freezing cold weather. Whilst warming their cockles in the design process, Jena. Theo presented a bare faced front with a selection of sheer pieces .With models wearing Michael Stipe-esque war paint, the show started with sirens. Fantasia and Labyrinth references ensued with a neutral palette of charcoal, grey and black. TOPSHOP Unique may have made spring steps with their SS11 reference to mythology, yet it is Jena.Theo which seals the metamorphose into the winter months.

Jena.Theo

Grimm Glamour

 Maria Grachvogel is Haute-fly's newest favourite designer. Renowned  for pushing the fashion envelope and being 'an architect of the female form', Grachvogel's clients love her signature catsuits and 'magic pants'    (which are said to lengthen the legs and narrow the hips  - we can almost hear Gok's gasp!). Talking on her feline signature piece, " I have had at  least one catsuit in every collection. They embody the kind of versatility and modern glamour I love."  AW11 for Grachvogel's label is inspired by Brothers Grimm, which gives the collection a subtle sinister edge.  Set in Savoy's Lancaster ballroom, signature draping was set against a soft colour palette. Ebonies, buttermilk, crisp whites and methamorphic prints were seen on slick silhouettes of silk and lace. Such a magical mix which cements this collection as a true fashion delicacy. 

 Maria Grachvogel

Maroon 5

Dublin designer Paul Costelloe started the showcase with his 24 year old daughter Jessica. Wrapped up in tweed sourced from Tipperary, the collection revealed a palette of emerald, mustard and mocha heels. From sharp tailored skirts, block colours, hand warmers and velvet blazers, Costello's inspirations of  "colour, Irish tweed and  Boulevard Saint-Honoré in the late sixties” were clearly woven into each piece. Haute-fly loves the Mulberry inspired hair pieces, which  give a conservative nod to celebrities such as Cheryl, Rihanna and Gaga. 

Paul Costelloe