Tuesday, 23 March 2010

Double Take Double Day

Nearly a year after graduating from Bournemouth Arts Institute with the collection Mass Ration, Felicity Doubleday  has been nominated for the ‘Jon Adams Portfolio Award’ at GFW, been provided a platform on The Clothes Show  stage, worked with both Allegra Hicks and Manjit Deu and is now  focusing  on multiple collections  for completion  in A/W 10. Phew, did you get all that? 

Having a stall at the upcoming Alternative Fashion Week in April, Felicity took some time out of her very hectic schedule of freelance commissions and bespoke wedding dress designing to discuss the past 12 months of recognition, nominations and showcases (as well as her future goal to sell her pieces in Brown’s one day soon…)

“I relish designing and styling my female muse: independent, confident and exuding a relaxed quirkiness. As it's the festival time of year, this seemed an apt setting for an ethically-based outfit. A festival is particularly appealing for the 'eco-chica', who has a passion for sourcing a variety of garments and accessories in order to create an innovative outfit. This way of approaching fashion may help encourage individuality and customisation, and therefore ethical thinking.”

With the Mass Ration collection being reflective of sentimentality, memorabilia and treasuring family possessions in our Recessionista times, Doubleday clearly stitches ethical credentials into each design, a cause which she wears on her metaphorical green sleeves (Sorry, we couldn’t resist…). With fashion houses waking up to the fresh-fashion -forward idea of sustainability, from Portland Fashion Week (The new Seattle) to The Green Fashion Show held in London just last month (and attracting Nicole Farhi to the front row), it seems the future is no longer orange. 

With admiration for designers such as Hussein Chalayan (“He is a real inspiration to me - his revolutionary vision to experiment and push boundaries of the dress.”), Westwood and the late McQueen (“For their rebellion and shock factor in Fashion.”) as well as Viktor&Rolf (“For their beautiful designs that represent something close to their hearts.”), she reveals:

“I find it fascinating to constantly learn about how new technologies and processes develop to help towards creating a more green future in fashion, which I feel would lead to a lot more respect for real technical and beautiful long-lasting fashion garments.”

With this revelation, it is understandable that Doubleday has a current interest in upcoming designers Iris Van Herpen and Louise Goldin, both whom showcased their A/W 10 collections at LFW. Herpen’s exquisite armor-style pieces take power-dressing to a complete new level together with her mesmerizing headpieces and mermaid-esque dress sculptures (adopting the look of precious cocooned coral). Goldin’s studded heels are now available at TopShop courtesy of Philip Green for a cool £150 and the directional knitwear designer has just scooped The Fashion Forward designer prize for 2010.

Having interned with organic resort queen Allegra Hicks and Couture designer Manjit Deu early in her career, Felicity has gained a cosmopolitan experience within the industry, continued to keep an open mind and is now looking full frontal towards her fashion career. So has Hicks’ elegant wear influenced her designs? 

‘It was a wonderful opportunity and certainly made me approach my own designing with a new found interest for using chiffon and velvet. The print designing probably gave me the confidence to design the tights and placements of the images on the high-waist trousers. Furthermore, I was extremely grateful to her for sponsoring me by providing some of the fabrics for my graduate collection!’

And what ultimately attracted her to work with newbie Deu? “I was really intrigued to work with Manjit as he is very new on the fashion scene, yet doing extremely well so early on in his career. His dresses are beautiful.  It has been an inspiring experience working with him on his Harrods collection.”

So, with recognition, nominations, experience, aspirations and true talents Doubleday is set for a great 2010, and she gave MA a little exclusive into the year ahead: “I was really pleased to have been nominated for the [Jon Adams Portfolio] Award, it really challenged me to push the boundaries and be as creative as possible in the way I presented my work. It was such an honour to be asked to lend some of my pieces to The Clothes Show. For 2010, I hope to gain more experience in the industry and I am hoping to complete another collection by the end of the year.’

MA cannot wait to get our green fingers on them…

Sunday, 14 March 2010

Hip Haute

Close your eyes. Imagine a summer day. Light breeze yet intense heat. ' The concept of the shoot for the s/s 10 collection came from the beauty of the Island'. Shot in Santorini, Greece, the fashion photography really encapsulates the essence of the collection.

The fashion house was inspired by Agnez Dereon, Tina Knowles' mother who's creativity, determination and spirit allowed her to accomplish success as a seamstress in the face of segregation, prejudice and racism in the 1930s American deep south. Two generations later, grand-daughter Honey Bee is the new generation of self- expression and confidence...

The ethos of the House is to fuse celebrity power and design artistry into a brand of global importance... a house of inspiration and aspiration. Hautefly fave's are the Silk Butterfly Print Gown and the Green Silk Watercolour Print Halter Gown worn by Queen B herself. Enjoy...


Hip Haute

With Ms. Carter- Knowles gaining plenty of , ahem, exposure from both collaborations with Gaga, Hautefly had a little peak at her clothes line, ( House of ) Dereon, to give the little freakum dresses the green light... Watch out for the Queen Ruffle Dress in Sunflower (the perfect pastel for spring) and the aptly titled Video Phone Star Tee and black Juliet Shoe.


Wonder Women

After the Tarantino bloodshed, Gaga's light-hearted poisoning and flesh baring,the power-house that is BK (from Texas) looked like a modern day Wonder Woman in her star and stripe ensemble. Yet it was Gaga who added a cock-rock twist with headband,bikini and extreme thigh high silver boots.

Throughout the video there is the constant reference to the telephone, information and modern-technology. With the help of hat designer, Philip Tracy ( a la McQueen and Issy Blow) its almost like Gaga presents this as a symbol to both represent a time gone by and modern day communication. That's perhaps is why so many love LG, because as a new artiste she is communicating something fresh, exciting at and times original, ' She is bringing haute couture to the mainstream and once again making fashion relevant and expressive, ' Its not about emulating me as a musician, it's about being whoever you want to be'.

Blond Ambition

Hello, Hello, baby you called, I can't hear a thing...
What!? I look like Madonna, just without the conicals n top-knot bling...

Within the grand fight scene, Gaga stands next to a Stefani Germanotta look-a-like. Our lady G is very aware of her alter-ego and fashionista stage presence. Yet this look is perhaps reveals too much of her pop artist influence of Ciccone.

The Haus of Gaga studded jacket, teamed with the bra and thong two-piece (showcased with sometimes very humorous dance routines)makes Gaga seem a Danny and Bad gal Sandy all-in-one. Yet is is the clash of Coco Chanel and Coca-Cola which really gives this look its deserved edge.

Chain Reaction

After, ahem, being man-handled and taking the nude trend a little bit too far by baring all to reveal her non-package - Gaga is then escorted (incarcerated in style) into the cage of CCTV and crotch-fondling.

Yet it is the custom-made Viktor and Rolf ensemble, teamed with those Haus of Gaga smokiiin (!) shades and pa pier mache boots which really grabbed Hautefly's attention.

Saturday, 13 March 2010

Beyond Gaga.....

Day two. 8,020,570 views.Some have even named it the the new Thriller. Gaga latest medium combines theatrical, risque,creative and at times humorous elements to formulate this explosive 10 minute short film. Apparently Lady 'MF' Gaga wanted to extend on her previous video Paparazzi ( A stylistic portrayal of 'fame' and 'celebrity') and to create a commentary on the country in which America has become. A mass of young people who are in turn consumers, consumers of information and technology, image, sex, products and advertising, and perhaps in a sense fashion. Hautefly agrees, yet cannot help but gorge on the selection of honey-bee pieces showcased.

Tuesday, 2 March 2010

The LOVE Thing from LOVE on Vimeo.

Monday, 1 March 2010

Hautefly's Look Book S/S 10

Retro Denim: Twenty8Twelve, House of Holland and Ashish

With a backdrop of The Beach Boys, the models slinked down the catwalk, with the heavy sequin embellishment giving a wet look affect. Very 90s once more, with crop top (with knot), distressed denim and a punk rock influence with the studded aesthetic.

Hautefly's Look Book S/S 10

Retro Denim: Twenty8Twelve, House of Holland and Ashish

80s power dressing is toned down for S/S, yet it seemed Henry Holland didn’t quite have the power of goodbye. Teamed with lace, big hair, earrings and colourful pouts this is Madonna circa 1983.

Hautefly's Look Book S/S 10

Retro Denim: Twenty8Twelve, House of Holland and Ashish

At Hautefly we are loving the distressed denim look. A huge hit on the High Street at the moment- yet remember the attention to detail to break up the monotony. If you aren’t brave enough to team a whole outfit build together- try skinnies, tassle heels and a pastel coloured top. Alternatively wear an over sized distressed shirt with leggings and flats. Perfect.

Hautefly's Look Book S/S 10

Ruffles and Fringing: Erdem, Matthew Williamson, PPQ and Vivienne Westwood

Dame Vivienne in her Red Label collection effortlessly creates an array of characters. Hautefly selected these two pieces as they illustrate how Viv can create an eclectic mix of fabric and textures effortlessly.

Hautefly's Look Book S/S 10

Ruffles and Fringing: Erdem, Matthew Williamson, PPQ and Vivienne Westwood

Hautefly selected these two pieces from PPQ’s collection as it’s bang on trend for this season and for A/W 10 too, a perfect investment piece. Everyone from Alexa to Fearne are wearing the full length skirt. Grab yours now…

Hautefly's Look Book S/S 10

Ruffles and Fringing: Erdem, Matthew Williamson, PPQ and Vivienne Westwood

“For the S/S collection there was a bohemian aesthetic… I wanted to push that further creatively. The embellished jackets were sequins that were hand curled. A lot of work went into the collection to give it a very luxurious feel” - Matthew Williamson

Hautefly's Loook Book S/S 2010

Ruffles and Fringing: Erdem, Matthew Williamson, PPQ and Vivienne Westwood

Everyone and their mum would like to get their hold on Erdem’s beautiful collection which was inspired by Japanese culture, cherry blossoms (and perhaps a sake tipple). The attention to detail is beautiful and teamed with gorgeous floral heels and shades to complete the look.

How would you describe the Erdem woman? “A clever person who probably cares little about seasons, she has a lot of conviction and marches to her own drum.” – Erdem

Hautefly's Look Book S/S 2010

Ibiza Uncovered: Matthew Williamson, Ashish, twenty8twelve

Sienna and Savannah create a more approachable high street look with the S/S 10 collection. With a dose of lilac and monochrome they are both lovely pieces. Spot the difference: bronzed sun kissed skin (check), wavy sea salted hair (check) chunky statement bracelet (check) and flats.

Hautefly's Look Book S/S 10

Ibiza Uncovered: Matthew Williamson, Ashish, twenty8twelve

“The three things which inspired me for the spring/summer 2010 collection were summer vacations, holiday romance and faraway places” – Ashish Gupta

Hautefly's Look Book S/S 10

Ibiza Uncovered: Matthew Williamson, Ashish, twenty8twelve

This look is all about the bronzed skin, sleek hair and the large beach bag to stash your sunnies, San Tropez and blackberry. The hard curled sequins, orchid print and pops of neon (along with those gorgeous bow-heels!) make this the perfect summer look to recreate on the High Street.

Hautefly's Look Book S/S 10

Nautical: Ashish, Twenty8Twelve, Nicole Fahri

Nicole Farhi is a French lady who learnt her trade in grand Paris. Nautical is a key trend for any S/S season and Farhi demonstrates how you can wear it relaxed but still chic.

What are your design signatures? “We mostly develop our own fabrics and prints and are known for our colours and textures in a style that is easy and elegant.” – Farhi

Hautefly's Look Book 2010

Nautical: Ashish, Twenty8Twelve, Nicole Fahri

Again a very accessible look from Twenty8twelve; Sienna’s influence is evident in the tassel footwear (another Key trend for S/S) accessories and general outfit build. Hautefly loves the retro appeal with the distressed stripe, crop top and knot open shirt.

Look Book S/S 10

If your fond of sand dunes and salty air....

Nautical: Ashish, Twenty8Twelve, Nicole Fahri

Bonjour! You are probably wondering where the obligatory blue stripes are with Ashish’s s/s collection. Yet Hautefly is sure that Coco would have approved of the sequins and glamour (as well as the golden heel). Topshop are but just one of the High Street stores which have taken on this look (Visor and studs optional).

How would you describe the Ashish woman? “Fun-loving and sexy with a sense of humour. She likes to make an entrance.” – Ashish Gupta