Monday, 28 February 2011
Daughter of a Greek interior designer, Mary Katrantzou's collections are truly pieces of art. SS11's showcase of the lampshade skirt created lots of clients to switch on to the creative talents of the Central St.Martins graduate. If you can't be a piece a piece of art, then you should wear one....
Giles Deacon's AW11 collection was all very My Coy Mistress. Celebs and clients alike were summoned to the courts to witness a very grown up Giles showcase. Fierce but feminine ( and in parts a little French maid), the collection gave great attention to detail and presented the fantastic faux fur lined dress that glowed and glossed. Splices of skin on display led AW11 to live up to its name of " statement, playful, confidence clothes."
Ahh. Christopher Kane... firm fashion favourite of Anna Wintour and Alexa Chung, Kane is more than able to make the FROW silently swoon. The designer revealed, " It's always good to move out of your comfort zone each season, to learn new things and challenge our senses." For AW11 the Scottish designer shed his skin with a collection which was a spectacle of scales and rigid rubber. It was almost as if the CK muse has surfaced from a girl into a woman, as these futuristic mermaids almost side wined down the runway like elongated reptiles. Part fluid and liquid, part rigid and rubber- the hidden treasures were the knitwear woven skirts. Now where is our Triton?...
Burberry Prorsum's creative director Christopher Bailey is no shrinking violet in his sixties inspired AW11 collection for the fashion brand. Although think more Paddington bear than teddy boys, as Bailey keeps us all in check. Block colours and tangerine tones hints that SS11 could be creeping into our autumn attire with the British brand. In the finale snowy showdown the youth and optimism came flooding back from the swinging sixties, if just for a mini moment.
Amongst SamCam ( Samantha Cameron), twitter and the size zero debate, Erdem's AW11 collection revealed lace, print, silks and velvet. A seasonal change from the Canadian designer's SS11 collection to a muted, wintry and dark showcase, which showed just flecks of floral on velvet and flowing maxis.
To watch more, visit catwalkreport_v2.aspx?seasonid=23&seasonday=2011 02 20&day=3
Celebrating their 10th Anniversary, Temperley London put their breast foot forward in a selection of sheer, slick silhouettes. Beautifully embellished white dresses teamed with nude shoe boots showcased alongside knitwear ponchos and leather trousers. High waist skirts and tuxedos ( and gorgeous gold tipped heels) were the height of luxury set against the grand steps. Certainly a collection for champagne and caviar... treat yourself.
Matthew Williamson's winter collection brings together tribal knits and Aztec prints to create a high end Bohemia. Talking on the collection Williamson quoted, " This collection is a nomadic element mixed with an urban luxurious feel." With tapered trousers and tassel trims in tangerine, peach and peacock blues - Haute-fly's personal favourite was the neon and nude ensemble. No one does it better than Matthew....
Sunday, 27 February 2011
With the AW11 Collection for the aptly titled 'Red Label' being as bold as brass in more ways than one, the posh to perverse outfits were sure to raise more than just the model's painted eyebrows. It was all very 'Vivienne' with loose shapes, balloon shorts, pin tucked shirts, tapestry knits and velvet knickerbockers ( in all their glory!). Dame Viv used the Royal Courts of Justice to support her stance on sustainability and the collection was at once fantastic and youthful. With the showcase's theme of the 'mad tea party' being hinted, it seemed that whilst Westwood is not set to dress Kate Middleton in the upcoming nuptials, Vivienne is still very much the Queen of the Catwalk and, more importantly, our hearts.
Having adored the last two collections from TOPSHOP Unique's creative team, Haute-fly was waiting with baited breath for the AW11 showcase. Creative Director Karen Bonser described the brand as ' Always fun and playful' and the upcoming fall collection is certainly what it states on the collar. Think DeVil meets Dalmatians and The Great Depression. Art Deco designs printed on lemons and uniform navy's whilst Pongo and Perdeta sit embellished on conservative creams with cropped trousers. Box jackets, hot pants, burlesque basques, sailor jumpsuits and faux fur coats create a unique and ever fun collection. An intelligent and playful ensemble of pieces which are cosy, cuddly and classic... and which certainly won't have you on PETA's most wanted list. By AW11, Haute-fly is wondering how many of us will be asking ' How much is that doggy in the window?'...
Hats off to Howell, who like Caroline Charles and Vivienne Westwood is a veteran of design and a strong supporter of the British fashion industry. Years after selling shirts and custom making corduroy pieces for Jack Nicholson in The Shining; Margaret Howell still has a clasp on the catwalk with her androgynous pieces tailored to all tastes. Quintessentially British, her contemporary clothes are fantastic fashion for both men and women alike.